Home » Special Exhibits » Plate-by-Plate: The Navajo Blanket Portfolio
From 1939 to 1942, the Laboratory of Anthropology in Santa Fe, NM,1 sponsored a New Mexico Federal Art Project initiative to create a portfolio of prints of fifteen Diné (Navajo) weavings from its collection, hiring artist Louie Ewing to orchestrate the effort.
For the project, Ewing, assisted by fellow artist Eliseo Rodriguez, invented his own version of the silkscreen printing process. The technology had been introduced to the United States only several decades prior and even more recently adapted for non-commercial purposes. “I was one of the first ones to experiment with silk-screen printing,” Ewing recalled in a 1964 interview. “Eliseo Rodriguez…was my helper. And our first print, I think it took us about three days to produce. Because we made our squeegee, to move the paint across the screen, out of an auto tire because there wasn’t a squeegee invented then. And then we used a window-cleaning thing and that didn’t work because the oil melted the rubber.”2
Two hundred of each print were produced. Portfolios were distributed to the Bureau of Indian Affairs and the federal government’s “Indian service schools,” as well as to universities, libraries, and museums nationwide.
As explained in the Portfolio’s introductory text: “The fifteen color plates in this portfolio are from specimens in the permanent collection ranging in period from 1850 to 1910. Selected to represent as wide a range of types as possible . . . [t]he specimens [are] arranged in order from early to late.”
The Portfolio makes the case that the “best” period of Diné (Navajo) weaving was the mid-1800s, during what scholars (then and now) refer to as the “blanket period” or “classic period.” At this time, finely spun European yarns were made available to Diné weavers, stimulating what the Portfolio describes as a “refinement in the Navajo weaver’s craft.” The Portfolio laments how weaving changed with the building of the railroad and increased commercial trade in the late nineteenth century. First, it patronizingly claims that the introduction of “newly invented aniline dyes in gaudy hues . . . all but wrecked [the] trade in blankets.” It also blames the introduction of store-bought cloth blankets as initiating the “end of Navajo blankets as such,” arguing that weavers “were finally induced to turn their skill to the production of a coarser, heavier type which the traders could market as rugs.”
One goal of the Portfolio was to promote the value of “classical” Navajo weaving (and thereby the value of the Laboratory’s collection, which it noted was the ”largest and most varied collection” of “fine old blankets” in the country). Correspondingly, its goal was also to promote continued production of mid-1800s Navajo weaving techniques and designs, and so it was positioned as both an instructional and consumer education manual.
Note: Gallup’s collection of Portfolio prints is incomplete, including only 10 of the 15 images produced (for reference, the National Gallery of Art has a complete set). For some images, however, the collection includes multiple prints. The prints were transferred to the City of Gallup’s Red Rock Park Museum by the State of New Mexico’s museum system in 1980.
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
The Portfolio describes the weavings presented in highly technical terms. Plate 2 is described as follows:
“Period, 1850 to 1875. Size, 54 by 70 inches. Design of the classic period, with fine hand-spun white and indigo blue, raveled material for the light green, and both raveled bayeta [wool cloth of European manufacture] and Saxony yarn for the reds.”
Louie Ewing and Eliseo Rodriguez also paid close attention to the materiality of each weaving, seeking to authentically replicate each blanket not only in terms of design but also in terms of character and quality. Here, they replicate the variations in light and dark tones seen in the original. “We tried to make our colors as close as possible to the real rug dyes,” Rodriguez explained in a 1999 interview.3
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
The Portfolio dates the weaving represented in Plate 3 to 1875, and explains that its weaver achieved a pink color by carding raveled red yarn with white wool. It also classifies this weaving as a “zoned design of the classic period.” Many mid-1800s weavings feature a symmetrical pattern consisting of five design zones: a central design, a second design applied on either side of center, and a third design to bookend weaving.
According to the Portfolio, in the mid-1800s, “weavers came to use a variety of harmonious colors with increasing ingenuity and skill as they developed their own system of design.” The weaving depicted in Plate 3 perfectly demonstrates the Portfolio’s laudatory view of classic period weaving, and it is perhaps for that reason that it was selected for inclusion.
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
The subtleties of Louie Ewing and Eliseo Rodriguez’s approach to replicating the quality of weavings through the silkscreen printing process are on full display in Plate 5. Notice how the artists capture the soft curvature of the blanket’s rectangular shape, the minute ripples along its edges, and the minor asymmetries of the weaving’s striped design.
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
It appears the Portfolio presented all its printed images in vertical/portrait format. Yet the “Chief” blanket pictured in Plate 7, as is true of many of the other blankets depicted, would have been made to be worn wrapped around the shoulders, and so the print is shown here in horizontal/landscape format.
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
Louie Ewing and Eliseo Rodriguez’s Portfolio prints read as highly accurate reproductions given their specificity and attention to detail. Here, in Plate 8, the artists replicate the reference weaving’s variations in green-colored yarn, especially noticeable between the upper and lower portions of its middle section.
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
This print is arguably the Portfolio’s least accurate weaving depiction. Its most obvious deviation from the original is the omission of its fringe. This seems a deliberate choice—probably not the artists’ but the project directors’. Not only do Louie Ewing and Eliseo Rodriguez demonstrate an attentiveness to detail and skillfulness in replicating idiosyncrasies in their other Portfolio prints, the impetus to exclude the fringe is likely not to have been creative or technical. Rather, it is in line with the Portfolio’s express desire to promote standards of “classicism” in Navajo weaving.
Currently, one widely accepted hallmark of authenticity in Navajo weaving is a lack of fringe. However, fringe was common during the post-classical, late-1800s “transitional period” in weaving (indeed, the Portfolio dates this weaving to 1880/1890). During this period, weavings were largely produced for the tourist market—weavers were creating wall hangings, table runners, and sofa covers rather than blankets or rugs, and incorporating fringe as a decorative element.
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
Plate 10 again demonstrates Louie Ewing and Eliseo Rodriguez’s attentiveness to color variations and commitment to accuracy. Here, the artists even separately color one segment of the top two and bottom left crosses in an attempt to match the reference weaving—opting for a more complicated silkscreen printing process for the sake of precision.
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
Plate 12 shows off Louie Ewing and Eliseo Rodriguez’s skillfulness and mastery of the silkscreen printing process. The artists were able to reproduce subtle variations in the reference weaving’s handspun white wool background in form and tone. They were also able to accurately reproduce the weaving’s light purple accents, which according to the Portfolio are “much faded.”
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
According to the Portfolio, the weaving represented in Plate 14 is the most recent of the lot, dating to “about 1900.” Scholars identify the period between 1800 and 1900 as a “transitional” period in which weavers were experimenting with newly available, brightly colored commercial yarns and new patterns, such as the “eye dazzler,” and producing largely for a tourist market. Borrowing from Mexican serape designs, “eye dazzler” weavings are characterized by a pattern of diamond shapes. One expert has identified the weaving pictured here as a “transitional eye dazzler”—an interesting point of reference in terms of the evolution of Navajo weaving.
Navajo Blanket Portfolio print
Photograph of reference weaving
Records do not indicate the selection criteria for the weavings reproduced in the Portfolio, but the one seen here in Plate 15 may have been chosen for its rarity. Indeed, the Portfolio describes the weaving as “unusual.”
Louie Ewing and Eliseo Rodriguez’s presumably faithful imitation of the weaving’s scalloped edges (the original weaving has not been located) signal that it is a “wedge weave”—a technique that appears in the 1880s but not with any frequency.
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